Mount Kailash Parikrama A Great Experience
On the calling of my Six Pack Shiva and HIS DIVINE GRACE, and the blessings of the Elders, we successfully completed the Mount Kailash Parikrama and Lake Manasarovar Parikrama.
This is my SECOND time to Kailash Manasarovar Yatra – first time in 2019 by myself and this time around with my wife Mythili and couple of friends. This time the Yatra was very special considering the difficulties in getting the Chinese and Tibetian Visas, my dad getting admitted to the hospital 5 days before the Yatra etc.
KATHMANDU
Our Yatra started on 22nd August in Kathmandu. Our company Visit Kailash Treks needed 4 days to get the Chinese and Tibetian visas and necessary permits. Kathmandu is one of the most beautiful and Holiest cities in the world. It has 3 Durbar Squares (Kathmandu, Lalitpur or Patan Square and Bakthapur Square) all of them are part of the World Heritage UNESCO sites. From August 22nd to Aug 26th visited the following sites in Kathmandu
- 1. Kumari Ghar
- 2. Durbar Square
- 3. Nasal Chowk
- 4. Hanuman Dhoka
- 5. Taleju Temple
- 6. Doleswar ji temple
- 7. Changu Narayan Temple
- 8. Sanga tallest Shiva
- 9.Krishna Mandir
- 10.Patan Square
- 11.Patan Museum
- 12. Swoyambunath Stupa
- 13. Jal Narayan temple
- 14. Pasupathinath temple
- 15. Guheswari Amman temple
One of the evenings went to Sri Pasupathinath temple with my fellow Yatris. Had a good Darshan of Sri Pasupathinath and attended the Aarthi on the banks of the river Bagmathi. Also we made a day trip to Janakpuri – to visit Janaki Mandir and place of Maa Sita Ram marriage. Before leaving for Tibet did Rudrabishekam in Sri Pasupathinath Temple.
BORDER CROSSING
On Aug 26th we left Kathmandu and drove to Timure a town in Nepal, closer to Tibetian border. It is only 170 kms – but took us almost 12 hours – due to rain and mud slides. We stayed overnight in Timure.
On 27th after a long wait at the Tibetian immigration we finally entered Tibet and reached Kerung ( just 55 kms from the border). Overall the drive from Kathmandu to Kerung was very scenic- high mountains, valleys, changing topography, the beautiful Uttar Ganga river, road side waterfalls all in one heavenly package. Worth the long drive.
ACCLIMATIZATION
We stayed one night at Kerung which is at 2800 meters altitude. The next day after visiting a local Monastery and doing some last minute shopping we left for Saga which is at 4500 meters altitude. We stayed in Saga for 2 nights to get acclimatized for the upcoming higher altitudes. In Saga we took a 7 kms hike to Brahmaputra river.
MANASAROVAR
On 30th the Pournami day we drove from Saga to Manasarovar and had the first Darshan of Sri Kailash.
We completed 75% of the Manasarovar parikrama that day and stopped on the way to collect Manasarovar water and to dip the Rudrakshas and other divinely things in the lake. We reached our guest house very late. But due to full moon lighting and clear skies were able to have a nice darshan of south facing Kailash. We tried our best to be awake to witness the light effects at Manasarovar lake but nothing happened. I was able to participate in a Havan conducted by a devoted Nepalese Yatra group.
On 31st we all took a shower on the banks of Manasarovar lake and conducted a Havan and conducted Rudra Homam. After lunch we drove to Theerthapuri at the banks of the Satlej river. In this holy place all the Therrthas ( Kailash ) are established for a one place visit to all important Theerthas) it’s also called Adi Badrinath. We reached Darchen on time to take enough rest for the upcoming Parikrama.
INNER KORA
On September 1st my co-yatris started their Parikrama by hiring a porter and horse and going to Dirapuk. Visit Kailash Trek got the permit for me to go on the inner Kora also known as Nandhi Kora. It’s a 34 kms trekking from Darchen to Darchen through high altitudes ( 16000 to 20000 ft). We ( myself, guide Ramesh and porter Bal Bahadur) left at 5 am on the inner kora. It is once in many lifetimes opportunity. I was able to have the darshan of Atma lingam, Nandhi Bagawan, Asthapathi, south facing Kailash, Kuber lake and Sapta Rishi caves. The Sapta Rishi caves are at a height of 19300 ft and is part of mount kailash. To reach the Sapta Rishi caves one his to climb the last 210 ft using ropes. In winter we need ice axes to climb this part. I was lucky that the wearer was good and sunny and no need for any such equipment. Spent 45 mins at tge Sapta Rishi caves and did meditation at the same caves where Sapta Rishis meditate. Again once in many lifetimes experience. I felt really blessed by Lord Shiva. There are also 13 stupas there and did 3 Pradhakshanas of the stupas. After the darshan has to climb up to 6000 meters ( close to 20000 ft) using ropes and then descended 3000 ft with the help of Bal Bahadur. After the descend it was a long walk through the valley back to Darchen.
DIRAPUK and CHARAN SPARSH
First day ( my second day ) of Parikrama- Our Kailash parikrama started from the Yama Dwar (15500 ft, 4700 m). This signifies our entrance to the Divine world of Kailash where we symbolically leave behind our mortal selves. The first day covered about 13 km by walk or Horse Back. I preferred walking and walked the distance. After reaching Dirapuk I immediately embarked on Charan Sparsh.
Charan Sparsh literally means touching the feet. In this case, we attempted to go to the symbolic location to touch the feet of Kailash from where the mountain rises. We had to climb roughly about 1200ft (3.5 km up) and then back to Diraphuk (1200 ft down and 3.5 km). Overnight at Diraphuk.
The most difficult part of the Parikrama was on September 3rd. First we had to hike up 2400 ft ( 16100 ft to 18500 ft) to Dolma La pass and Gowri Kund where God Ganesha was born. Then we descended 6 kms to Buddha Feet and walked another 10 kms to Zupulpuk.
On September 4th I walked to Darchen and completed the Parikrama all by walking. After having lunch we drove to Saga and while doing so we completed the rest 30% of the Manasarovar parikrama. On September 5th we drove to Timure and crossed the border after waiting for 6 hours. After finishing the Nepal immigration formalities we took an Helicopter and landed in Kathmandu in the next 45 mins.
On September 6th, we took a chartered helicopter for the Mukthinath Yatra. The weather was just perfect for the 2.5 hours Helicopter ride ( Round trip). . Also the weather was warm enough to take a shower in 108 Theerthas and take a dip in tge 2 kunds. Mukthinath is the last (106th Divya Desam ) and 51st Shakthi Peedam.
With the blessings of Shivji, and the blessings of Surya Bagawan, the parikrama went beyond our expectations- superb clear skies all the four days of the Parikrama. I am doubly blessed with an opportunity to complete inner kora also known as Nandi Kora and Mukthinath Yatra.
My profound thanks to Shiven Holidays team -Yatish Kumar, Ramesh Ojha ,Anil Ojha, Rajendra Dhamala and Kiran Sapota and all the Shiva Ganas for the immaculate planning and Hospitality and services. Without their dedicated services the Yatra wouldn’t be a success. I highly recommend Shiven Holidays for the Kailash Yatra and the other Yatras and trekking trips they offer.
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